Principality of Hutt and Cervantes

Tuesday, August 26 to Thursday, August 28:

Drove south firstly to the Principality of Hutt River and then on to Cervantes hoping the trip on the lobster boat I had booked from Geraldton would go ahead but they need at least 4 people and only had 3. 

Hutt River

Created in 1970 when the now Prince Leonard seceded from Australia due to wheat quotas and moves to acquire his property, the Principality of Hutt has its own world standing.

we were greeted by Pince Leonard himself and chatted with him after buying our $2 visa. He talked about his principality (large farm worked by three of his four sons) and were then given a guided tour by his son Prince Graeme.

We bought some of their currency, their stamps and publications plus a couple of nice pens. The principality pays no taxes, issues its  own passports and titles to supporters around the world and has its own number plates.

spent a couple of hours there and were even allowed to sit on the Prince and Princess' throne and pretend we were rulers of the world.

 

Sue by the painting of the Balibo 5 and more particularly Greg Shackleton.

Wal on Prince Leonard's throne looking very royal.

Sue with Prince Graeme.

Then it was time to move on to Cervantes. Along the way we called into all the little hamlets for a look and had lunch at Freshwater Point which has a couple of fishing huts on it – like so much of the coast around here. As luck would have it a lobster boat came in so we had free entertainment with our lunch.

After we set up we went for a drive around Cervantes – a fishing town with the main attractions the Indian Ocean Lobster Shack and the nearby Pinnacles National Park.

We visited the nearby LakeThetis which featured Stromatolites but they weren’t as good as those at Hamelin Pool.

And thankfully, our lobster boat trip went ahead. It was a bit rough and I had to hang on for grim death but it was a specially built craft capable of carrying 100 people. The captain Mick took us out to the demonstration pots to show us what they do. They pulled only 10 pots while the Thompson family’s 7 other vessels pull 100 plus each. The target is at least 3 rock lobsters in each pot and we achieved that for all bar one empty pot which was broken.

He said the water as sloppy – I would say it had very large waves!

 

Captain Mick shows how they have to check every lobster to make sure it has its legs, is the right variety, not carrying eggs and is of course long enough.

On the way back we stopped to give the sea lions the left over bait but they were too fat and lazy to visit us.

After the boat trip we toured the factory and learned how the lobsters are graded and purged for  days before packing and processing. They have grades A (up to 450gms to H up to 2kgs). We were shown a massive 1.5kg lobster – obviously kept for us tourists.

They it was time for the serious stuff – eating lobster – I has mine grilled while Wal opted for fish and chips. Yummy.

Sue and Wal with the skipper's dog Harry who was sea sick.

 

This is a 2kg lobster - kept for show but very much alive.

Some of the many baskets holding various sized lobsters at the Lobster Shack.

The next two days The Pinnacles captivated us. On the first visit we went late to be there at sunset but as we missed the visitor centre we went back again the next day and again drove around the several kms of road and took heaps more photos. This is a truly amazing place. There are various theories about how the pinnacles formed – fossilized trees to rocks being warn away etc. If the scientists can get it right what hope do we have.  Very much a must do on the bucket list in WA.

A series of images taken at The Pinnacles National Park, Cervantes.

A pair of Nankeen Kestrels one a pinnacle.

Geraldton and histoic Greenough

Friday, August 22 to Monday, August 25:

At Geraldton. We only stopped a night here previously so it was  great to explore. Our CP was right on the beach and we could hear the surf crashing in and the mist fell across the park. It was great.

After we arrived we drove down to the warves which is the largest port for grain in Aus and also transports minerals. Seven ships were moored off the coast waiting to enter.

The council has done a lot of work along the foreshore with parks, a marina, walking trail etc it has become a lovely spot.

Wal at the lookout at Geraldton. The city is in the background.

Some of the many buildings at the National Trusts Greenough Village.

Inside the Catholic Church at Greenough.

We did a major shop to last us until Busselton and beyond.

We went to the WA Museum and did a tour of the Shipwecks of the area the most famous of which is the Batavia and of course HMAS Sydney. Then we headed off to Greenough (pronounced Greenoff) which is a collection of old homes which have been restored and maintained by the National Trust. We also visited the local museum in the home of one of the original families.

Dave and Val caught up with us on the last night and we had a great happy hour. We may see them along the track somewhere down south again. Who knows.

Beautiful Murchison River and Kabarri

Monday August 18 to Thursday, August 21:

Moved on to Kalbarri – another beautiful spot but more sophisticated than Denham.

We spent one day going around the Kalbarri National Park with its gorges along the Murchison River; caught up on the washing and had lunch with Val and Dave on Thursday. It was at Kalbarri that we had our first rain for months and it bucketed down but cleared up in the afternoon.

 

Kalbarri and the sea in the distance.

The Murchison river in Kalbarri National park.

Wal sitting at the famous Nature's window with the Murchison and gorge in the background.

Where the Murchison meets the sea at Kalbarri.

Denham and the giant Cobia

Monday, August 11 to Sunday, August 17:

Took a break for a week and stayed at Denham. The Blue Dophin Caravan Park was a little funny and meant for fisher people but we had a good spot out of the way.

It is a wonderful place – quiet but the IGA store was great but we didn’t try the hotels or restaurants.

Looking westward across the salt flats to Shark Bay.

Some of the many tributes left by travellers in memory of family and friends.

Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool near Denham. Stromatolites are most primitive form of life.

Dolphins put on a show at Monkey Mia.

The very salty part of Shark Bay where only small shells can survive.

Guys this one is big!

We filled our time with a trip from Monkey Mia on the Aristocat2 followed by lunch at the beach. We watched the dolphins being fed – very controlled but still gorgeous. We also visited the aquarium which was fantastic as we learnt so much from the very knowledgeable young guides; did a spot of fishing – only fed the tiddlers and crabs – went swimming a couple of times  and of course did the day fishing charter on Sunday, the day before we were to leave. It was disastrous in lots of ways – the other couple had their young daughter with them. The mother got sea sick; the skipper was new and had trouble with the speed and crashed about and stopped suddenly pitching everyone off their seats.

We were heading out to Turtle Island 1.5hrs away. After 1.25 hours the wife demanded we turn around. So it was another 1.25hrs lost taking her and her daughter back. We then went in closer – another half hour of fishing lost – to the snapper sandbanks.  With my second cast I hooked a hugh fish. I started winding and a big Cobia came up. Everyone moved out of the way as he took off. The rod hadn’t been serviced and I couldn’t turn to handle as it was so stiff so Jules the assistant had to take over and landed my fish. Boy he was a beauty and I felt sorry for him. He was abut 1.2m long and 20 plus kilos.

Wow he is a big Cobia.

We all caught lots of pink snapper  but because Shark Bay is a prime breeding ground we are only allowed to keep those between 500mm and 700mm. either side they have to go back. We finished the day with only one keeper snapper. I hooked a couple of Norwesters (puffer fish to us) so they weren’t landed.

We were back at the dock by 4.30 and the boys kindly filleted my Cobia for me. They reckoned he was 40 years old and would have fetched $500 at the fish market as the fish is prized by the Japanese. Apparently they catch one every week or so but not as big as mine!

Sue with her Cobia before he hit the table to create lots and lots of fillets.

We had also met Dave and Val from Queensland who spent a few days opposite us. We shared a couple of happy hours together and will catch up with them again at Kalbarri where they are staying in the same park.